Firewood Species Finder
Which firewood species is right for me?
Firewood species trade off heat output, seasoning time, and splitting ease very differently. Answer a few questions and we'll match you to a species, or browse the table below.
| Result | Best for |
|---|---|
| Oak | For long, hot burns and wide availability |
| Hickory | For the single highest heat output of common firewoods |
| Ash | For good heat output that's ready to burn sooner than oak or hickory |
| Sugar Maple | For a reliable, moderate all-purpose firewood |
| White Pine (softwood) | For fast-seasoning kindling and quick, easy fires |
| Black Locust | For the rare hardwood that rivals hickory's BTU while splitting easier |
| Red Maple | For easy-to-find, easy-to-split wood that seasons quickly |
| Black Cherry | For a pleasant-smelling, easy-burning hardwood |
How the scoring works
The finder weighs the traits that matter in a stove or fireplace: heat output per cord, how long the wood takes to season, how hard it is to split, and how it burns (long, even coals or fast and bright). Your answers about what you want and what is available add points to the species that match, and the highest total becomes your result.
Heat value is not the whole story
Dense hardwoods such as oak, hickory and black locust deliver more heat per cord than light softwoods such as white pine. But a high heat value is only useful if the wood is dry. Oak, for example, often needs a year or two of seasoning to burn well, while ash can burn reasonably after a shorter time. Burning wet wood wastes heat, creates creosote in the chimney and is a leading cause of chimney fires. A moisture meter, which is inexpensive, is the best way to check wood before you burn it. Wood at or below about 20 percent moisture burns cleanly.
Matching species to use
Dense hardwoods suit overnight burning because they hold coals. Lighter woods such as white pine light easily and burn hot and fast, which makes them useful for kindling and for mild-weather fires but poor for heating through a cold night. Many households keep two kinds: a hardwood for the core of the winter and a softwood or lighter hardwood for kindling and shoulder seasons.
Cost and supply
The best species is often the one you can get locally, because transport adds to the price. Check what loggers, tree services and sawmills near you have, and compare price per cord on the same basis. A face cord, a rick and a cord are different amounts, which is why the firewood cord and BTU comparator converts them to a common measure.
Safety and regulations
Burn only seasoned wood, have the chimney inspected and cleaned each year, and keep a working smoke and carbon monoxide detector on every level. Some areas restrict burning on high-pollution days or limit moving firewood to prevent the spread of invasive insects such as the emerald ash borer, so check local rules before transporting wood across county or state lines.
Common questions
How do I know wood is seasoned?
Look for cracks at the ends, a lighter weight and a hollow sound when two pieces are knocked together, then confirm with a moisture meter. A reading around 20 percent or below on a fresh split face is the target.
What is the difference between a cord and a face cord?
A full cord is 128 cubic feet, stacked 4 feet high, 4 feet wide and 8 feet long. A face cord is the same height and length but only as deep as one log, often 16 inches, so it is about a third of a cord. Always ask what a seller means by the unit before comparing prices.
Is it worth buying a moisture meter?
Yes. It is inexpensive and saves wasted heat and chimney problems from wet wood.